Eat With Locals: The Best Restaurants in Kandy

Capital of the Sri Lankan highlands, restaurants in Kandy serve some of the country’s best food. Here’s where you’ll find locals eating.

I had no intentions to visit Kandy on my visit to Sri Lanka. I mistakenly thought it was just a tourist town and there wasn’t much to offer.

Boy was I wrong!

Besides the beauty, culture and heritage of the city it also has incredible local food.

Besides the Food, Why Visit Kandy?

Kandy has a small-town charm.. The downtown area is lively with cafes and restaurants. Staying in the city center makes it easy to enjoy local culture.

It’s a short walk to Kandy Lake, which is peaceful and beautiful. It’s a good mix of tourists and locals here. The buses make it noisy, but that adds to the city’s energy.

This city became a UNESCO heritage site in 1988. Kandy is known for its sacred sites and rich history. With a population of around 100,000, it feels welcoming and not overly crowded.

The main attraction is the Buddhist temple housing Lord Buddha’s tooth.

It’s a budget friendly city and I thought our hotel in Kandy was a bargain. Beyond that just outside the city is more amazing scenery and sights. You can customize this tuk tuk tour to take you out for the day.

I loved exploring Jaffna foods in the north but in the highlands food is very different. If you can get off the main tourist strip you’ll find some fantastic Sri Lankan food at local prices.

Best Restaurants in Kandy

Mandiya

This is not only the best restaurant in Kandy but was also my most memorable meal in Sri Lanka.

Mandiya is a cozy restaurant in the back of a small shopping mall in Kandy. It is known for its authentic Sri Lankan cuisine, specifically rice and curry.

It only has four tables but there’s also a constant stream of locals coming in and out for takeaway.

The owner Rajan creates a changing menu of traditional dishes in his rice and curry, with options like fish ambul thiyal and spicy chicken curry.

The plate is a colorful, flavorful explosion. It is bright, bold and in some cases very spicy. He cooks with interesting ingredients as I also tried the Sri Lankan fruit ambarella in one of the curries, which was like a mango pineapple mix.

And for this reason if you can only eat at one restaurant in Kandy it should be here.

Just be aware he’s so popular locally you should go early before the food runs out. You can see more from Mandiya’s instagram account.

Mandiya
Pushpadana complex, DS Senanayake Veediya, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka

Hela Bojun Hala

When you support women’s businesses you support families. I love Hela Bojun Hala because it’s a great way to try traditional food, that is authentic cuisine and supports that local economy.

Hela Bojun Hala is a unique food court concept in Kandy, launched as a government initiative. It aims to empower local women by providing them with safe economic opportunities.

Located next to the mall, above the parking lot, the airy outdoor area is a popular local spot with a variety of food stalls, each offering traditional Sri Lankan dishes.

Each stall features a couple of dishes and the cook. No two stalls serve the same dish so there is no competition.

    

Diners can sample local favorites, such as hoppers, Sri Lankan pancakes, milk roti and polos aka jackfruit fritters. It’s great as a visitor because you can try so many things for under $1 that is the closest you’ll get to home cooking.

But this place is packed with kids after school having snacks and families. It’s not a tourist attraction in Kandy, it’s made for locals.

Hela Bojun Hala has inspired similar projects in other cities, promoting local food and empowering women across the country.

Hela Bojun Hala
Ahalepola Kumarihami Mawatha, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka

Balaji Dosai

Balaji Dosai is a well-known vegetarian eatery in Kandy, specializing in South Indian cuisine. It’s so popular there are four locations in the city.

And while it is not specifically serving traditional Kandy food, it is very popular with locals.

The star of the menu is the dosai, a crispy rice and lentil crepe served with various chutneys. Each dish is prepared using traditional methods and ensuring authentic flavors.

It’s a not frills kind of place that has generous portions and reasonable prices. We discovered it when we went to dinner at 8pm and learned most of the city shuts down by then.

But it was so good we actually went back a second time because the channa masala was too good not to have again.

Devon Restaurant & Bakery

Established in 1960, this is a historic restaurant in Kandy that is still popular with locals.

Originally a small bakery, it has evolved into a beloved restaurant known for its diverse menu. The restaurant offers a mix of Sri Lankan and Western dishes, catering to a wide range of tastes.

The menu is big, which is something I don’t like because I find it overwhelming to choose something.

But if you also want to eat local favourites, popular items include their signature devon curry, a flavorful chicken dish and the iconic butter cake.

    

We were asked if we wanted to eat upstairs at the Captain’s Table, which appears a bit more formal. I prefer a low-key spot focused on traditional food than to eat with western tourists.

The bakery section features freshly baked bread and pastries, drawing in customers throughout the day. Prices at Devon are budget-friendly, allowing diners to enjoy hearty meals without breaking the bank.

Devon Restaurant & Bakery
No.11 Sri Dalada Veediya, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka