The Ella Odyssey: Sri Lanka’s Secret Train

Most tourists believe they need to book Sri Lanka’s trains 30 days in advance, few know of the Ella Odyssey which has seats available just days before.

Planning a trip to Sri Lanka I had given up on the iconic Sri Lanka train routes because the conventional advice is that blocks of tickets are released 30 days in advance.

These tickets are purchased within minutes, and so if you’re like me and aren’t 100% of your route, you’ll never get a seat.

I believed this until a few days before I was leaving Sri Lanka when my Ella homestay host told me I could just go to the train station and book the Ella Odyssey.

The Ella Odyssey is one of several “tourist trains” that follow popular routes like Ella to Kandy on the way to Colombo.

I call it a secret train because it’s not well known by tourists and so it’s easy to reserve a seat in any class just days in advance.

Here’s a how-to guide I wish I’d read before visiting Sri Lanka.

What is the Regular Advice for Booking Trains in Sri Lanka?

• Advance Booking is Recommended: Most sources advise booking tickets 30 days in advance, especially for second-class reserved and first-class seats.
• Limited Reserved Seats: Only a small percentage of seats are available for advance booking.
• Unreserved Third-Class Tickets: If reserved seats are sold out, you can buy unreserved third-class tickets on the day of travel, but there’s no guarantee of a seat. Most tourists end up sitting on the floor and fight for a prime seat at one of the open doors.
• High Tourist Demand: Routes like Ella to Kandy or Ella to Colombo are extremely popular, making last-minute tickets difficult to find.

Step-by-Step Instructions to Book a Last-Minute Train in Sri Lanka

All of the conventional advice is for public trains. But there are a number of tourist trains that follow the same route and you can book both first and second-class seats even a few days before the train leaves.

1. Go to the Train Station to See if Any Tickets on the Special Trains are Available Like the Ella Odyssey
   • They don’t run every day of the week, so you’ll need to be flexible with timing. There are several tourists trains so ask staff what your options are.
   • If you know in advance when you want to go you can book the Ella Odyssey online

If You Still Want to Take the Local Train There is Last Minute Hope

1. If the tourist train doesn’t run that day, check for last-minute tickets on the regular train
   • Even if tickets are officially sold out online, some may be released last-minute at the station.
   • Politely ask the station staff if any reserved seats have become available.
2. Consider Splitting the Journey
   • If a direct reserved ticket is unavailable, check if you can book reserved seats for part of the journey and then switch trains.
3. Upgrade on the Train
   • If you only manage to get an unreserved third-class ticket, ask the conductor on board if any reserved seats are available. Some passengers cancel or fail to show up, and the conductor may allow you to upgrade.
4. Be Flexible with Your Departure Time
   • If your preferred train is full, check for later departures.
   • Some less popular trains have more availability compared to peak-hour trains.
5. Try Different Train Stations
   • Larger stations like Ella and Colombo have more ticket options.
   • If you’re near a smaller station, try checking ticket availability there instead.

That said, the Ella Odyssey was such a relaxing experience I really do recommend it.

What to Expect on the Ella Odyssey

• Guaranteed Seating: Unlike regular trains, booking the Ella Odyssey ensures you have a reserved seat. We were the only people in our train car so there was no fighting for door photos and it was so relaxing.
• Scenic Stops: The train makes stops at some of the most beautiful locations along the route for sightseeing and photos. The Ella Kandy route is truly beautiful. And if you haven’t visited Kandy it’s worth a few days as I had one of my best meals in Sri Lanka at a restaurant in Kandy.
• Comfortable Ride: First-class is air-conditioned but no one was in it because the windows don’t open. Second-class has fans and open windows for fresh air, we were very comfortable. Third class is also reserved and the seats have less cushion but are also nice.
• Local Vendors: Snacks and drinks are available at the cafe so unless you are picky no need to bring food from Ella. Food was great. Local vendors also pop on to sell things at train stops like local Sri Lankan fruits.
• Less Overcrowding: Unlike regular trains, the Ella Odyssey is less crowded since all seats are reserved. I have heard that tourists fight over seats and the doors on the regular train. No one needed to fight here.

Ticket Prices for the Ella Odyssey

• First Class (Air-Conditioned): LKR 5,000 per person (one way)
• Second Class: LKR 4,000 per person (one way)
• Third Class: LKR 3,000 per person (one way)

These prices are for the full journey between Colombo and Badulla. Shorter segments have lower prices.

For example, traveling from Colombo to Kandy costs LKR 3,000 in first class, LKR 2,000 in second class, and LKR 1,500 in third class.

Final Tips for a Smooth Experience

• Be polite and patient when asking for tickets or upgrades.
• Enjoy the ride—Sri Lankan train journeys are some of the most scenic in the world!

By following these steps, you can still enjoy the incredible train ride from Ella to Colombo without having to stand the entire way, even if you book at the last minute!