Day 113-119: Somewhere between Panama and Colombia
I was on the fence as to whether I should sail from San Blas Panama to Colombia.
The accounts of the trip were polarizing; some people had a disastrous time with cokehead captains beaching their ship on sand bars.
Others spent the entire time seasick but then there were those who said it was a highlight of their trip.
When I arrived in Panama City I decided to suck it up and instead of taking the cheap $100 flight, I would shell out four times as much for my first sailing expedition.
Our hostel said the trip was 5 days with 3 days in San Blas Panama, islands which are just off the Caribbean coast.
Interestingly, the indigenous Kuna Yala tribe have self governing authority over the islands and a part of the mainland.
It’s a must-see in Panama so I figured for San Blas Panama alone the sailing trip would be worth it.
Plus I really wanted to wear a big floppy hat.
Day 1: Porvenir and Chichime
Season joined me on the trip and we met our shipmates – a couple from England and an Aussie from Melbourne who once managed one of my favorite bands, the Cat Empire.
Along with Captain Mike and First Mate Dan, also from Australia, we sailed out to the first island.
Taking time to swim in the bath-warm water we were treated to a postcard perfect sunset as Captain Mike and Lach brought out their guitars.
There are moments traveling where I feel so fortunate to be have these experiences and to see things many people will never see.
This was one of those moments where I sat back and just enjoyed the moment.
We had a few drinks and went to bed at midnight.
Well not all of us.
The first mate started drinking the local rum and it made him a bit loco, I think he was up all night.
Day 2: Dog Island
On the way to Dog Island a group of 4 dolphins came to swim alongside the boat for 20 minutes. I’ve been mesmerized with dolphins since I saw the documentary The Cove.
If you are ever considering swimming with dolphins at a resort I urge you to watch this film first as it may change your mind on the well being of these animals who should really be left in the wild.
Day 3: Coco Bendeeras
We traveled to Coco Bendeeras and I spent most of the day reading in the sun.
We bought red snapper from one of the Kuna’s and caught tuna along the way so we had a feast of fish on the beach that night. After a day in the sun we all called it quits around 9pm.
Day 4: Coco Bendeeras
We found out that this was not a 5-day tour but a 7-day tour and would be spending another day here.
This wasn’t good news for Season who was supposed to be meeting a friend in Cartagena and had a hostel booked.
Everyone seemed surprised but didn’t want to complain as we were in paradise.
Captain Mike was able to buy some lobster from the locals and it was a bit of a test for me as a seafood lover.
At first they wanted to cook it in a black bean sauce, which I thought was a terrible idea as it would mask the flavour of lobster.
Black bean sauce usually accompanies chicken, vegetables, tofu or other bland items. But I held my tongue.
Lach was more vocal and suggested a garlic and oil sauce with some tomatoes, unfortunately it ended up being lobster in a generic tomato sauce with overcooked noodles.
Oh well…
Day 5: Open Sea
I’ve been seasick a few times. It isn’t pleasant and the worst part is that even when you vomit you still don’t feel better.
When Captain Mike asked if we wanted to take bets on who would be seasick first I said it was no contest, it would be me.
As a preventative measure I took one motion sickness tablet and then passed out in the cabin for 8 hours. I woke up to have an orange, slept for another 4 hours.
As we were traveling for 24 hours straight to Colombia, we all took shifts watching to see if any other boats were in our path (we had GPS which steered the ship but no radar to warn of incoming traffic).
Fortunately I had the 10-12pm shift; unfortunately it seems Season who was on deck with me, lost the bet and was sick for most of those two hours.
Day 6: Open Sea
I was feeling a bit better but the boat was still rocking quite a bit so, like Season, I spent most of the day horizontal. Thankfully I had a full set of podcasts to listen to and had downloaded Parks and Recreation to keep me amused.
Day 7: Cartagena, Colombia
We arrived in Colombia at 6am but didn’t get off the boat until 10am. While we all had a great time we were so glad to get off the boat. Later on we went for drinks but everyone was quite, after living together 24/7 for a week we had nothing left to say!
Note: Thanks to Season for the video and Lach for the photo of me passed out in the cabin.
$400 for a week long sail trip? Not a bad deal! I’d pick that over a plane ride any day. Bet it was a really cool experience.
I’ve done a boat trip similar to this and, like you, had an absolute great time. It really is like floating through paradise!
We are considering doing that trip in reverse. It doesn’t sound like it was too bad so maybe I’ll load up on Dramamine and do it.
What an AMAZING trip, seasickness aside! Looks like you had a blast. 🙂 I’d love to hit Panama and Colombia someday, and this looks like a wonderful way to get between the two countries.
Great post! Sounds like an adventure, though I don’t think I’d welcome the seasick part of it.
Girl, I feel your pain! I actually have turned down three assignments to Antarctica over the years, because while I’m dying to go there, my seasickness is so terrible, I know I wouldn’t survive the Drake Passage. People who don’t have motion sickness and who have been on that journey say the whole boat spent two days in bed getting sick while traveling through the passage. That does not sound like a fun trip to me!
Have you tried Bonine? It’s like Dramamine without the drowsiness. I took that and ginger tablets while boating in Tasmania last month, and for the first time in awhile, I didn’t get a bit sick. (Queasy at times, but no vomiting!)
I haven’t tried Bonine, have you? Oddly enough while the dramamine knocked me out the first day, I was fine the next. Actually two days later I took a terrible bus ride so I took one and felt fine, which was disappointing as I had hoped to sleep through the 12 hour ride.
SWEEET HAT!!!
Looks awesome, glad you decided to sail!
Sounds like an incredible voyage. Well worth $400, I say!
Your Message
Cheap is not always better, looks like you made the right choice, sounds like a lot of fun.
Gosh, I’m so sad that you got sick, but it was totally worth it! What an AWESOME experience and now I sooooo want to do it. Please tell me you got that Aussie’s #? 😉
I must say this is an amazing trip 🙂 I want to see Dolphins before i die 😛
It looks like such a fun trip! I’m always dubious of boats, though – am glad it looks like I’m not the only one who suffers from terrible motion sickness!
To get through a whole week on the water, open sea or not, I’d have to be so doped up on motion sickness tablets I’d probably sleep the whole time!
Sounds like a real cool trip! We are planning to go to Cartagena from Panama in early December and are hesitating if we should go by boat or flight. However, I have not managed to find any good flight options so far.
How did you find yours?
My hostel knew of several boats and was able to vouch for them, a lot of people only book a day or two beforehand so you don’t need to worry about booking ahead. If you’re staying in a hostel they’ll either be able to book it for you or direct you to who can as it’s a very popular option.
Ooooooh nice! We were thinking of an option like this! Looks like you had a blast. The last time we went sailing was in Barbados and I had the time of my life. Not sure if I could handle it for multiple days though…
Gravol doesn’t work anymore?
Now this is incredible!!
I would take a little seasickness for dolphins any day. 🙂
Sounds like a great trip. I’ve never done this and it sounds really cool.
Jason
“[seasickness] isn’t pleasant and the worst part is that even when you vomit you still don’t feel better.”
I feel your pain. I spent two years sailing from CA to French Polynesia and throughout the South Pacific islands and the seasickness was horrifying. Combine that with dark nights and giant waves and you have a recipe for some major unpleasantness.
@Myra
The dolphins were totally worth it.
@Jason I highly recommend it. Even though I realized I’ll never be a sailor it was worth every moment.
@FearfulGirl
I fared pretty well, even though I was a bit queasy my poor friend Season was doing much worse. I was happy I had prepared for the trip with lots of medication. No way I could manage what you did.
Sounds like a wonderful jounrey! I love boat rides and other offbeat modes of transport like that!
What an interesting way to travel from Panama to Colombia!
I enjoyed this post. Sorry you got sick, but it seemed you toughed it out and had a great time. Sometimes those trips when adversity is met and conquered (or at least endured) are the ones that we look back on with the most fondness.
Being seasick is my worst nightmare! I’ve never actually gotten sick, but I’ve felt queasy. I swear by sea-bands — have you ever tried them? They sell them at most major drug stores in the US, and they’re these elastic bands you wear around your wrists that put pressure on a certain point. I love them… Sometimes they’ve even helped me with a migraine.
I wondered if those wrist bands worked but didn’t want to take a chance so went with dramamine.
Wow! I wish I have my own yacht or boat so I could go sailing too. Great adventure!
Ever since finding out that you couldn’t get from central to south america by land (at least without being shot at) i’ve always wanted to do this trip. Either panama to colombia or vice versa. One day soon I hope!
When in Cartagena I thought about this trip but unfortunately didn’t have the time to wait for an available boat. It does sound like an interesting experience, but perhaps not all that fantastic?
Seasickness aside I totally loved it and would recommend it to anyone.
Well you really convinced me.
Leaving in 2 days to Panama’, will move into Colombia like a pirate, by boat 🙂
There are also boat servicing daily from Panama to Turbo in Colombia, seems a less expensive and “arranged” experience so to say, have you ever check that option?
Also, didn’t you stop in San Blas?
Ciao!
D
Yes we did stop in San Blas Islands, they are the islands I named in the first 4 days.
You can do a ‘boat’ to Turbo but I heard it’s really sketchy and getting from Turbo is a disaster. I spent 7 days sailing and ended up in Cartagena which was a much better route for me.
Thanks Ayngelina,
Cartagena is a good route for me too, as I’ll be heading to Barranquilla to visit an organization.
Will read more of your adventure as I’m visiting some of the countries you’ve been to!!!
Hey Ayngelina,
I did it!!
Hey Ms Bacon, we’re planning your trip in reverse and would love to do the water crossing, but are looking for something cheaper. $100 flight between the two countries sounds awesome but I can’t find one at that price. Any tips please? Thanks
If you keep your eye on Avianca and Aires you should be able to get a sale to Panama City from Bogota. They are pretty frequent.
Let me know how it goes!
I love the Cat Empire! “The Chariot” is just incredible! That aside I must say I did the trip myself and loved it too. However, I went on a 50 foot catamaran which should be more stable. Didn’t get seasick. I got recomended Santana and Gisbert the german captain as a secure pick, on the way.
I didn’t know this was an option – thanks for the post.
Who did you sail with, or more importantly, how’d you go about finding an outfit to take you?
It’s pretty easy, a lot of people sail from Panama to Colombia and vice versa. Once you get in town most hostels and hotels will offer to take care of everything for you or apparently there is a bar all the captains go to and you can save yourself 50 bucks by doing it yourself.
Shawna and I were talking about a similar trip last night… I hope we can make it work! Do you know if it also would be possible to go from Panama up to either L.A. or Miami?
I’m not sure if people sail there, you may have to research in advance as I think there are sailing seasons.
actually from january to april, you will experience strong winds (from east to west), they are called trade winds. Perfect to go from colombia to panama, but a bit challenging for the opposite direction !..
hope that helps … thks for your blog ..
Thanks for the tip!
Do not miss to experience Kuna people’s culture in San blas
And this I why I love travel blogging. I never even would of thought of this and now it is totally on my list. Cheers, I am super excited to visit South America it has been in the top 5 of my bucket list for far too long and other countries keep getting in the way haha, Its on in 2014!
Hey,
I was working on a sailboat, but it’s definitely an experience I would recommend. We brought 5 backpackers across and they all loved it!
Cheers!
Sailed Bocas del Toro to Colon in March. Laid in for repairs at Shelter Bay Marina. May head for Cartagena mid-Feb.
Nice share..
Travel is easier with a yacht, there are no check-in lines at hotels, ports or travel agencies to worry about. You needn’t carry luggage from one destination to the next, because everything will be stowed away in your cabin.
So, personally love sailing a lot…
It is 2018 and I just came exactly the same with this trip, I really have a blast! it was awesome.
It all depends on which boat you take actually .. Some are great.., and some are not..
Some people also take a (cheap) plane to Panama, and then go on a sailing trip in san blas.. which is a great solution as well, and which we do organize 😉