Local’s favorite foods in Bangrak Bangkok, one of the best neighborhoods for authentic Thai food from street food stalls to Michelin stars.
There are so many famous temples, markets, shopping malls, restaurants, night markets in Bangkok that it can seem overwhelming.
Where to start? Or at least I felt that way when settling into the city.
But Bangkok is a city of neighborhoods, actually 50 districts. And once you see the main tourist sites the best thing to do is grab a good pair of shoes and hit the streets.
I was drawn to Bangrak because it’s part of Old Town and one of many historic neighborhoods. Locals are snuggled in between the tourist favorite, Yaowarat and the popular Chao Phraya River. And yet most have no idea this little neighborhood with some of the best street food exists.
It literally means the Village of Love as Bang = Village and Rak = Love. If you’re wondering what Bangkok literally means it’s Village of Wild Plums.
Although even more interesting is that in 1782 King Rama I moved the capital of Thailand. The old location was called Bangkok and the new one we know today is called Krung Thep .
Thais call their capital this name but for some reason in over 225 years we foreigners still insist on calling it Bangkok!
What Should You Know About Bang Rak?
From an architectural/urban planning perspective Bangrak is interesting as it became a popular spot for European expats in the 19th century.
Charoen Krung Road, the main street was built during this time using Western construction techniques and became the first paved road in the country.
Laab Moo
This development was a significant shift in infrastructure and urban planning. It became a popular commercial hub in Bangkok. Bangrak is also home to Thailand’s first printing press and the first automobile sighting in the city.
Modern Bangrak reflects this history with original buildings, so don’t forget to look up as many old signs were not removed.
Many of the popular Bangrak restaurants are family owns and have been around for at least 50 years.
Where to Eat and Drink in Bangrak Bangkok
This neighborhood is probably one of the most underrated in all of Bangkok for food.
And while I came for street food and family run spots I must mention there are five restaurants in Bang Rak with Michelin Stars:
- Sühring
- Le Normandie
- Nahm
- Jay Fai
- Aksorn
And there are too many Bib Gourmand and Selected Restaurants to choose from but you can find them on the Michelin Guide site.
Personally I prefer the “Selected Restaurants” section as you’ll still find locals there. The Bib Gourmand distinction often brings long lines of tourists.
YAN WAL YUN | หยั่นหว่อหยุ่น
One of the first shops you’ll find in Bangrak is Yan Wal Yun. I had no idea this renowned Chinese supermarket has been a staple in the Bang Rak-Chareon Krung area for over 90 years.
But walking by I sign the sign for its famous Chinese Bitter Drink known as Huatuo. As the original shop serving this many locals refer to it simply as the “Chinese Bitter Drink Bang Rak.
It’s a family-owned business that’s been passed down through generations. There are signs in English explaining the benefits of each of their drinks as this is considered herbal medicine.
While not everyone speaks English they are friendly. You can check out the small shop stocked full of herbal drinks and unique condiments and century old eggs. They had no problems letting us film as we pointing to our cameras and asked if it was OK.
There are several types of drinks to drink and you can choose the level of sweetness you prefer. I decide to try the original Chinese bitter drink without sweetener.
It was very bitter. Not so much at the beginning but they give you a generous glass for 12 baht ($0.36 USD). And the more I drank the more I felt the bitterness in my mouth, wishing I had chosen a roselle drink to chase it with.
They also have more palatable options like chrysanthemum tea and lotus root but I’m glad I was able to try the original drink and staff laughed as I tried to finish it.
Address: 767 Soi Wat Phai Ngoen, Thung Wat Don, Sathon, Bangkok 10120, Thailand
Prachak Pet Yang | ร้านประจักษ์เป็ดย่าง
One of the oldest and most famous restaurants in Bangrak Bangkok. Prachak Pet Yang has been a staple in the city for over a century, celebrated for its exquisite roasted duck.
I’d heard that there was often a line-up out the door so I did not expect a seat. But I didn’t realize that they had an upstairs airconditioned dining room and as it was Wan Ok Phansa, the end of Buddhist lent, I think many assumed it would be closed so we had no issue.
The menu features their iconic Chinese style roast duck served with either rice or egg noodles. They also serve roasted pork and dim sum.
It’s a no frills restaurant with groups of young people and families meeting up. I really appreciated the air conditioning and they have an English menu.
I opted for the duck with rice, and each bite was tender and flavorful. It’s roasted until the fat is rendered and served with a sweet brown sauce. The duck is great on its own but once you try it with the sauce you get a delicious mouthful of sweet and salty goodness.
We also tried the handmade shrimp dumplings and they surprised us so much they stole the show. So simple but also tender and full of flavour.
Each dish was only 60 THB or $1.77 USD. What a bargain for duck and shrimp!
Address: 1415 Charoen Krung Road, Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
Je Niao Boi Kia | เจ๊เหนียวบ๋อยเกี๊ยะ
Je Niao Boi Kia is a stall operating out of a busy restaurant on the corner of Charoen Krung and Si Wiang. It serves a popular Thai dessert known as nam kang sai.
It’s a shaved ice dessert but might seem a bit peculiar to westerners because this isn’t like a snow cone with a rainbow colored syrup.
Instead the ice is topped with a variety of things like fruit, corn, seaweed jelly, glutinous rice strips and red beans in a brown sugar syrup.
It’s a popular street food, nam kang sai is loved for its cool, icy base that’s perfect in Thailand’s tropical heat. You pick your toppings and usually it turns into a cool soup before you’re done.
The origins of nam kang sai trace back to Hainanese immigrants who brought similar shaved ice treats to Thailand.
Their original recipe included simple ingredients like beans and syrups. Over time, local Thai flavors and ingredients transformed it into a uniquely Thai dessert.
I recognized this dessert immediately and knew my boyfriend loved it. As an Indonesian it was a taste from home as similar desserts exist across Southeast Asia, each with a twist:
- In Indonesia, it’s known as es campur, featuring tropical fruits and avocado.
- Malaysia and Singapore call it ais kacang, topped with red beans, grass jelly and syrups.
- In the Philippines, look for halo-halo, a shaved ice treat with fruit, flan and purple yam.
Sarnies
Although this Singaporean coffee shop had not existed for generations in Bangrak. I can appreciate how they respectfully set up shop by honoring the history of the abandoned ship repair building they restored.
Walking in, the decor reminded me of Cộng Cà Phê, which adapts each location to the building its in rather than making it generic.
Thai Fruits
Self described as Australian-Asian fusion fare & coffee, I would say it leans heavily into western cuisine and is more expensive. But they make everything from scratch from the bagels to the bacon.
And my 160 baht ($4.74 USD) iced coconut long black was pricey but with quality coffee and the toasted coconut was a treat. I peeked over at food on other tables and it looked really good.
This is a local favorite and I think they’ve done a great job of integrating with the neighborhood.
Address: 103 Charoen Krung 44 Alley, Khwaeng Bang Rak, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
Restaurants in Bang Rak I Missed
Jao Long Luk Chin Pla | เจ้าหลงลูกชิ้นปลา
While I love Thai noodles, I really don’t like fish balls. Or Asian meat balls. It’s an acquired taste and texture I just have not acquired.
I thought about pushing the fish balls aside, but it is what makes this
It’s nearby the Shangri-La Hotel, and you’ll find diners from all walks of earth coming for fresh halibut fish balls in various shapes, which can be poached or fried to order.
Address: 1456 Charoen Krung Road, Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Jok Prince | โจ๊กปรินซ์
If you want to try the famous pork congee, known as jok in Thailand, you must get up early!
Serving rice porridge for 50 years it started as a stall is tucked down a dark alley, keeping most tourists away.
Today things are in a modest shop and the crowds still come for the best rice porridge in Bangkok. It once would close before noon because it was sold out but with its new digs it’s open until 11pm.
Unfortunately it wasn’t open the day we visited.
Address: 1391 Charoen Krung Road, Si Lom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge | ห้องเลานจ์ของผู้เขียน
If you’re looking for a splurge the best afternoon tea in Bangkok is at the Mandarin Oriental.
Its décor reflects its history and I’ve heard it feels like stepping into a literary haven where countless renowned authors once gathered such as my personal favorite Somerset Maugham.
It feels like Europe but there are some unique pastries tucked amongst the finger sandwiches and freshly baked scones, such as blood orange and citrus baba.
Be aware there is a dress code here for “smart attire” so leave your elephant pants at home.
Address: 48 Oriental Ave, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Bang Rak’s Market
If you’re looking to shop in between bites be sure to check out Talat Bang Rak (ตลาดบางรัก) the local market next to the Shangri La Hotel. It has a lot of local life and good things to eat too.
How to Get to Bangrak Bangkok (Not to Be Confused with Koh Samui)
The easiest and fastest way is to take the BTS to the Saphan Taksin exit 3 and walk towards Robinson Mall.